Gauge Installation Instructions:

You will need:
Phillips Screwdriver
Adhesive Glue (Glue Stick)

Installation Instructions:

There are 4 screws that hold the instrument casing on the dash.
Two are located on the bottom section. Underneath the moon roof switch & Volume control switch
The other two are inside the cluster shroud on the top. (you might have to turn the steering wheel to access the screws)

After removing the 4 screws the casing can slide back. Separate the 6 harnesses & the casing can be removed.

Locate the 4 screws on the instrument panel that attaches to the dash & unscrew. (There are 4, 2 on each side)

The cluster should be able to be pulled back if you unscrewed the right ones

Pull the cluster away from the dash a little ways.
Reach behind & separate the two harnesses on top & move out of the way.
To separate the cluster from the speedometer cable, Pull straight back on the cable. Make sure not to twist, or pull at an angle. If need be, you can use a screwdriver to separate the lip of the clamp from the cluster to get it loose. (I know it sounds confusing but when you see it you’ll understand)
The cluster can be pulled out.

On the top there are two metal straps that clamp the clear plastic to the cluster, they are held together by 4 screws. Please note the position of the clamps before you remove so you know how they go back on.)
After that is removed. The top section with three lights can removed & set aside. (be sure to unplug the wire & light that plugs into the back of the cluster.
Separate the clear lens from the cluster being careful of the clips holding the two together.

Once removed. Take the plastic piece with the hole cutouts & set aside. Insert the gauges over the needles by sliding the overlays over the needles. It may be a tight fit but gentle pressure to get them in will be ok.

Using your fingers or a toothpick apply some glue to the bottom of the overlay or top of old speedo. Position it so the numbers are lined up with the old cluster. (Tip bend a staple out & mark the 2K, 4.5K & 6K positions. So the staples are sticking out higher than the overlay. Then when you overlay you can slip the staples out)

Reassembly is opposite.

P.S. When assembling, be sure to check that the gauges don’t bow up in the middle. If they do. Put glue inside where it bows & repeat.
I haven’t run into this yet. But if it keeps doing that, you might need to trim off some of the edges of the overlays so it doesn’t bow out)

At night to prevent bleeding from the stock light though the paper you can do the following:

1.) Lay a base foundation paper on the original. make sure that you glue it down solidly to the original face so it doesn’t bubble when it's cold out. (yes when laminated, the gauges would bubble when hot, with plain paper it'd bubble up when cold) after the base is layed, then apply the paper of the gauges on top of that, be careful that you don’t have any snags where the needle rotates. It gets really annoying when you're driving & it sticks at 30 then jumps to 70 cuz of a snag by the needle.

or

2.) Go vinyl, i haven't personally done this, but i have looked into it. you have a 100% to scale jpeg. so you can take it to a vinyl shop & have them print a sheet out. oversize the cut, then apply it to the gauges, clean it up after it is mounted all nice like. If i could do it all over again, vinyl would be the way to go.

As far as installation goes, it's pretty simple, just take pride in what your doing.